Toronto Door Repair

Door Repair Near Me is a Toronto door repair company covering the old city and the inner suburbs — Victorian and Edwardian semis downtown, post-war housing in the former boroughs, condo towers along the waterfront and Yonge, and storefronts on every main street. Bonded, insured, police background-checked technicians, 22+ years in the trade. Call (647) 955-5637.

Toronto’s Doors Fail in Predictable Ways

Old Toronto housing has two characteristics that drive most of our residential calls:

• Narrow semis and rowhouses settle unevenly. A century semi that has shifted even slightly leaves the front door binding at one corner and the deadbolt missing the strike. The instinct is to replace the door; the actual fix is nearly always the frame. See door frame repair.
• Original doors are worth keeping. In Riverdale, Leslieville, the Annex, Cabbagetown and Roncesvalles, the original solid door is usually part of the property’s value. Rot at the bottom rail can be spliced out — see wood door repair.

Two other Toronto-specific patterns: laneway and rear entries are where most forced entries happen, and they are typically the weakest door on the property; and front doors that open straight onto the sidewalk take road salt and splash all winter, which is why so many downtown jamb bottoms rot first.

Door Services in Toronto

• Residential door repair — entry, interior, patio and sliding
• Break-in damage repair with reinforced frames and box strikes
• Emergency door repair in Toronto and board-up
• Commercial door repair and storefront door repair
• Door closer repair for condo corridors and fire doors
• Door installation in Toronto and entrance door replacement
• Sliding and patio door repair in Toronto
• Glass and aluminum door repair
• Locks, rekeying and deadbolts

Areas We Cover

Downtown and the waterfront, the Annex, Cabbagetown, Riverdale, Leslieville, the Beaches, Danforth, Yorkville, Roncesvalles, High Park, Parkdale, Junction, Davisville, Midtown, Yonge and Eglinton, plus North York, Scarborough, Etobicoke, East York, Leaside and the Danforth.

Security: Where Toronto Doors Actually Get Beaten

Forced entries almost never defeat the lock cylinder — they break the frame beside it. A standard strike plate is held by two short screws into trim, so a solid kick splits the jamb and takes the strike with it while the deadbolt stays locked in a piece of broken wood. On rear and laneway doors especially, the upgrades that matter are a box strike with 3-inch screws into the stud, long screws in the top hinge, and solid backing behind the strike. We fit these as standard on break-in repairs and can retrofit them to a sound door.

Commercial and Condo Work

On Toronto main streets the recurring storefront job is an aluminum door dragging on a worn pivot — cheap to fix early, expensive once the corners rack and the glass comes under load. In condo and apartment buildings it is corridor and stairwell fire doors that no longer latch, which is both a compliance and a safety problem. We service rated assemblies with correctly rated hardware, and handle full replacement where a rating has been voided.

Residential Door Repair in Toronto: The Interior Doors People Live With

A lot of residential door repair in Toronto is inside the house, on doors people have worked around for months.

Pocket Door Repair

Pocket doors are common in older Toronto homes and in renovated condos where space is tight. When one jams, drags or comes off its track, the cause is usually one of three things: a worn or cracked roller, a track that has sagged or pulled loose from the header, or a floor guide that has shifted so the door rubs inside the pocket. Many problems can be fixed from the opening by removing the stop moulding and lifting the door off. If the track itself is bent, the wall may need to be opened at the top to replace it. We tell you which it is before anything is cut.

Bathroom Door Not Latching

Bathroom doors are the most common interior door we see that will not stay shut. Humidity swells the slab and the paint builds up, so the latch no longer meets the strike. Sometimes the house has simply moved and the strike is now a few millimetres off. The fix is usually to reset or move the strike plate, adjust the hinges, or plane the edge and reseal it so it does not swell again. A privacy lock that spins without engaging needs a new latch, not a new door.

Bifold Doors on Closets

Bifolds fail at the hardware. The top pivot pin wears out, the bottom bracket slips, or the guide wheel jumps the track. Most bifolds can be realigned and rehung with new pins and brackets in one visit. Replacing the whole set only makes sense if the panels are split or warped.

Older interior doors that are worth keeping can also be stripped and repaired. See our wood door repair page for that side of the work.

Exterior Door Repair in Toronto

Exterior doors take the weather, and in Toronto that means freeze-thaw, wind-driven rain and road salt tracked onto the sill. Exterior door repair usually comes down to the parts around the slab rather than the slab itself.

Weatherstripping

If you can see daylight around the door, feel a draft at the latch side, or hear the wind whistle, the weatherstrip has compressed or torn. Most modern steel and fibreglass doors use a kerf-in strip that pulls out and presses back in, so it is a straightforward replacement once the right profile is matched. On older wood doors with no groove, we fit a surface-mounted seal. A new strip will not help if the door is out of square, so we check the hinge side and the gap first.

Thresholds and Door Sweeps

A worn sweep or a loose threshold lets water and cold under the door. Adjustable thresholds can often be raised with the screws under the cap. Rotted wood sills under the threshold are a bigger job, because the threshold has nothing solid to sit on. That is when water starts showing up on the floor inside.

Rot at the Bottom of the Jamb

The bottom 30 centimetres or so of a wood door frame is where rot starts, because water sits on the sill and wicks up the end grain. If the rest of the frame is sound, the rotted section can be cut out and a new piece spliced in, then sealed and painted. If the rot runs higher, or into the sill and the wall framing behind it, the frame should be replaced. Our door frame repair in Toronto page covers this in more detail.

Front Door Repair in Toronto

The front door gets used more than any other door in the house, so its problems are about wear rather than weather alone. Here is what we see most on front doors, and the usual fix.

• The door drags at the top corner on the latch side. The top hinge screws have loosened in the jamb. Longer screws into the framing pull it back up.
• The lock is hard to turn unless you push or pull the door. The bolt is rubbing on the strike. The strike is moved or the door is realigned, and the lock is left alone.
• The glass insert is fogged or cracked. On many steel and fibreglass doors the insert can be replaced on its own without replacing the slab.
• The handleset is loose or the thumb latch sticks. Usually a worn internal part or loose through-bolts, not a failed lock.
• The steel skin is dented or rusting at the bottom. Small dents can be filled. Rust that has gone through the skin usually means replacement is the better value.

If the door is past repair, our Toronto entrance door replacement page explains the options. Published starting prices are a front entry door from $999, a steel entrance door with glass insert from $1,199, and a fibreglass door with glass insert and design from $1,499.

Door Frame Repair in Toronto

A lot of door problems that look like a bad door are actually a bad frame. Signs the frame is the issue:

• The gap around the door is wide at one corner and tight at the other, and adjusting hinges does not help.
• The jamb moves when you push on it.
• The casing has cracked or separated at the mitre.
• The strike area is split from an old forced entry that was patched with filler.

Frames can be shimmed and re-fastened, partly rebuilt, or replaced while keeping the existing door if it is in good shape. Replacing a frame on its own is usually far cheaper than a new pre-hung door unit.

Door Repair Service in Toronto: What a Visit Includes

People searching for a door repair service in Toronto often want to know what actually happens when someone shows up. Here is how a normal visit works.

Before the Visit

When you call (647) 955-5637, we ask which door, what it is made of, and what it is doing wrong. A photo by text helps us bring the right parts.

On Site

The technician looks at the whole opening, not just the symptom you called about. That means checking hinges, the frame, the strike, the threshold and the lock together, because a sticking deadbolt is often a hinge problem. You get a clear explanation of what is wrong and whether repair or replacement makes more sense. Estimates are free.

The Repair

Most residential repairs, such as realigning a door, fixing a latch, replacing weatherstripping or rebuilding a strike, are done in the same visit. Work that needs a custom part, a new glass insert or a new slab is measured that day and booked for a return visit. Our technicians are bonded, insured and police background-checked, with more than 22 years in the Canadian door trade.

Afterwards

We test the door with you: open, close, lock, and check the seal. If something is still rubbing or binding, it gets adjusted before we leave. For non-routine needs, see our Toronto emergency door repair service for urgent calls, or sliding door repair in Toronto for patio and sliding doors.

Related door services:

• Garage door off the tracks Toronto
• North York emergency door repair

Frequently Asked Questions

My front door sticks and the deadbolt does not line up. Is that the door?

Usually the frame. In Toronto’s older semis the house has settled, so the frame is out of square. A new door in the same frame will bind the same way.

Do you do emergency board-up in Toronto?

Yes — we secure the opening the same day and return to complete the permanent repair.

Can you save an original Victorian or Edwardian door?

In most cases yes. Rotted sections are spliced with matched timber and hardware areas reinforced, rather than replacing the door.

Do you work in condo buildings?

Yes, including corridor, stairwell and fire-rated doors for property managers and boards.

Can you fix a pocket door without opening the wall?

Often, yes. Worn rollers, a door that has jumped the track and a shifted floor guide can usually be fixed by removing the stop moulding and lifting the door out. The wall only needs to be opened if the track itself is bent or has pulled away from the header, and we will tell you that before any drywall is touched.

Why does my bathroom door not latch anymore?

Usually the slab has swollen from humidity, layers of paint have built up, or the house has settled so the latch and strike no longer meet. Moving the strike, adjusting the hinges or planing and resealing the edge fixes most of them. If the lock spins without catching, the latch mechanism needs replacing.

My exterior door frame is rotted at the bottom. Do I need a new door?

Not necessarily. If the rot is limited to the bottom of the jamb and the door itself is sound, the rotted section can be cut out and a new piece spliced in. If the rot has reached the sill or the wall framing, the frame should be replaced, and we can often rehang the existing door in the new frame.

Is it worth replacing just the weatherstripping on my front door?

Yes, if the door closes square. New weatherstripping and a door sweep are inexpensive and stop most drafts and water. If the door is out of alignment, the gaps will be uneven and new seals will not close them, so we correct the hinges or frame first.

Get a Free Toronto Door Repair Estimate

Describe the door and what it is doing. Call (647) 955-5637 or use our contact form.